Viral video highlights differences in men's and women's knitwear

As the colder months arrive, shoppers are being encouraged to check care labels before purchasing new knitwear. Abercrombie & Fitch is currently facing a backlash regarding the "pink tax" after a TikTok video highlighted a significant material discrepancy between menswear and womenswear jumpers that are sold at identical price points.

Fashion content creator Rachael Brownfield observed last month that the American brand was selling a 100% merino wool jumper in its menswear section for $95 (£71). Simultaneously, a jumper priced at the same amount in the womenswear section was composed of only 30% wool. While the styles differ, they were marketed together in a social media post, prompting Brownfield to label the situation as "Pretty weird" in a video questioning why a synthetic women’s jumper would cost the same as a men’s version made of pure wool. The Guardian has approached Abercrombie & Fitch for comment.

Brownfield’s video has garnered two million views and nearly 10k comments, leading many to question if a knitwear gender gap exists, similar to previous gender-based price disparities seen in razors, deodorant and dry-cleaning services. In response to the video, the data platform Style Analytics analysed full-price knitwear offerings from six major US brands on their US websites. The findings revealed that men’s jumpers priced under $100 are up to five times more likely to be made from 100% natural fibres like cotton, wool or cashmere than women’s jumpers.

Molly Rooyakkers, founder of Style Analytics, described being “floored” by the data, which also indicated that women’s jumpers under $100 are twice as likely to contain polyester than men’s, with the gap only closing at price points of $100 or higher. Although this is a limited snapshot of six brands on a single day, it has fuelled a debate regarding the composition of clothing. Fashion educator Roni Brunn noted that the trend cycle and sizing requirements contribute to the use of synthetics like nylon, elastane and polyester in women’s knitwear.

“Elastane gives stretch, synthetics can add fluidity, and they’re inexpensive,” Brunn says. “Men take fewer risks, so brands are incentivised to churn out the same things for men season after season, which means they can buy more yarn in bulk and optimise production.” Brands are increasingly seeking ways to reduce costs, often blending cheaper petroleum-derived fabrics with natural fibres while still marketing the items as high quality.

Shoppers are advised to be wary of marketing terms like “wool blend,” where the actual wool content can be as low as 15%. Brunn pointed to Gap’s CashSoft range, which does not contain cashmere but is instead a blend of acrylic, nylon and cotton, comparing such products to beauty items that “contain trace amounts of a buzzy ingredient and then overhype the entire formula.” She added: “A lot of the low quality that we see now is the result of fast fashion training consumers that they can have the trend for less. Other brands are forced to compete with that, and that’s how we get much of the synthetics.”

Sustainable fashion expert and writer Aja Barber suggested that societal pressure drives women to follow trends, requiring brands to cheapen products to keep up with the churn. “Men have never been targeted by the trend cycle in the way women have, and the only way you can keep up with that churn is if you cheapen the product,” she says. Barber noted that she often finds better quality in menswear, though Brunn pointed out that menswear can be difficult to fit, noting that button-up shirts often have hips that are too small and sleeves that are too long for her 5ft 7in frame.