The black T-shirt as a symbol of modern political power

For many years, the black T-shirt was categorised as a basic garment, serving as an understated layer rather than a central focus. However, recent political trends have brought the item to the forefront as a stylistic method for demonstrating authority.

Abdul El-Sayed, a progressive Democrat who recently became the first Muslim elected to the US Senate in history, utilised a fitted black T-shirt as his consistent look throughout a year-long campaign. He paired the garment with jeans and friendship bracelets crafted by his children, describing the aesthetic as “minimal look, maximal politics”.

This style stands in clear opposition to the Maga aesthetic characterised by boxy suits, as El-Sayed’s choice serves to bridge the gap between public life and politics. It is perceived as anti-establishment while avoiding alienation. Johnny Davis, the luxury director of Esquire magazine, notes that “Black radiates authority, seriousness, a certain no-nonsense masculinity.”

The black T-shirt has also become a defining feature of the “man of the people” image associated with Andy Burnham. This association is so strong that Kemi Badenoch once characterised the prime minister as a “pair of eyelashes and a black T-shirt”.

In July, former Israeli prime minister Naftali Bennett discarded his typical suits and smart shirts in favour of a black T-shirt and jeans during an attempt at a political comeback. Reports indicated that this wardrobe change was a calculated effort by his campaign team to portray him as “younger, more accessible and energetic”. Meanwhile, Ukrainian president Volodymyr Zelenskyy has adopted the black T-shirt as a symbol of solidarity and patriotism.

According to Davis, the garment evokes images of Hollywood actor Jason Statham, John Wick, the hitman played by Keanu Reeves, and Henry Rollins, the lead singer of the punk band Black Flag. He suggests it implies someone prepared to “get the job done”, regardless of the requirements. When interviewed regarding his choice of attire, El-Sayed explained it was “the ideal shirt for somebody who has got to be in a bunch of different kinds of spaces and places all day, every day”.

Comparing El-Sayed’s image to that of Donald Trump, Davis remarked: “One represents an almost exaggerated version of traditional corporate power dressing; the other is trying to establish a completely different idea of authority. It’s a line in the sand.” Historically, politicians like Barack Obama signaled their intent to work by removing jackets and rolling up shirtsleeves.

In May, Keir Starmer drew comparisons to John Major after appearing on stage without a jacket and with his cuffs deliberately folded back during a speech following negative election results. Davis suggests the black T-shirt represents an evolution of this concept, noting that “you don’t even need to roll your sleeves up”.

The V-neck, tight-fitting T-shirt worn by El-Sayed highlights what the BBC described as his “jacked” physique. David Hellqvist, the author of Blue-Collar Modernism and a men’s editor, believes the form-fitting choice demonstrates confidence. He states that the candidate is “very comfortable in his own skin and showing off his body,” which mirrors his political style. Hellqvist adds: “He doesn’t need to tell people he is going to roll up his sleeves and start fixing problems. They can already see he is doing it.”

Regarding the choice of black over white, Hellqvist asserts that black signifies “intent and purpose”. Davis argues that white is too closely linked to 1950s sex symbols like Marlon Brando and James Dean, describing it as “a bit 1950s sex symbol and too try-hard.” The consistent use of the black T-shirt also helped El-Sayed maintain a sense of familiarity for viewers at rallies or on television.

Davis draws a parallel to the signature style of Steve Jobs, who was known for wearing a black polo neck and jeans. “It’s personal branding disguised as not caring about clothes, which is quite a trick,” Davis explained. He concluded that “It suggests you’re too busy doing something important to waste time thinking about what to wear. Once you establish a signature look, you become instantly recognisable.”